K98 stock types
Forgotten Your Password? Remember Me? German K98 Stocks and Wood Types. The auto sizing is your browser's way of keeping images entirely within the screen size you have set. Move your mouse pointer to the bottom centre of the pic and you will see an options panel appear. There will be a small square box next to the large Xwhich will have a pointer arrow sticking out of it. If it's illuminated, it means the pic you're viewing can be enlarged, so click on this box and the pic will EXPAND and open to its normal size.
Click on PIC to Enlarge Laminated Stocks Solid Wood Stocks COM member "rcmauser" German K98 Stocks and Wood Types click here The pics above compare laminated and solid wood k98 stocks styles that you might find helpful. The first four pics are of laminated stocks. Laminated stocks are made from beech wood strips that are glued together similar to the plywood manufacturing process.
These examples use the red glue in between the laminations. There is a white glue variation out there, also. Not as common as the red glue.Kar98k Sniper to 1,100yds: Practical Accuracy
You can see laminations and how the red glue is highlighted. The dark one is wearing the russian capture shellac. The second set of four show solid wood k98 stocks.
The bottom stock is a post war solid beech wood Israeli stock This style is sometimes confused with laminated stocks. The secret to creating and maintaining quality research data in the Milsurps Knowledge Library is you!
This is your site and these MKL entries on various old milsurps are yours to add to, or change. The volunteers on the Advisory Panel click here can only do so much to vet and validate the information posted here, so please contribute as much as possible to help us present the most accurate and reliable data we can gather on these old milsurps. If you own a particular specimen of any MKL entry, then please send us pics of it, even though they may be duplicate views of pieces you already see here.
In that way, we can build up multiple sets of pics for several milsurps of the same model, which will help in identifying markings and authenticity.Although supplemented by semi- and fully automatic rifles during World War II, it remained the primary German service rifle until the end of the war in Millions were captured by the Soviets at the conclusion of World War II and were widely distributed as military aid.
The Karabiner 98k therefore continues to appear in conflicts across the world as they are taken out of storage during times of strife. In February the Heereswaffenamt Army Weapons Agency ordered the adoption of a new military rifle. The Karabiner 98k was derived from earlier rifles, namely the Mauser Standardmodell of and the Karabiner 98b, which in turn had both been developed from the Gewehr Since the Karabiner 98k rifle was shorter than the earlier Karabiner 98b the 98b was a carbine in name only, a version of Gewehr 98 long rifle with upgraded sightsit was given the designation Karabiner 98 kurzmeaning "Carbine 98 Short".
The pattern 7. It was found that the s. Patroneoriginally designed for long range machine gun use, produced less muzzle flash out of rifles that had a shorter barrel and also provided better accuracy. Because of this the S Patrone was phased out in and the s. Patrone became the standard German service ball cartridge in the s.
The Karabiner 98k is a controlled-feed bolt-action rifle based on the Mauser M98 system. Its internal magazine can be loaded with five 7. This change made it easier to rapidly operate the bolt, reduced the amount the handle projected beyond the receiver, and enabled mounting of aiming optics directly above the receiver. Each rifle was furnished with a short length of cleaning rod, fitted through the bayonet stud. The joined rods from 3 rifles provided one full-length cleaning rod. The metal parts of the rifle were blueda process in which steel is partially protected against rust by a layer of magnetite Fe 3 O 4.
Such a thin black oxide layer provides only minimal protection against rust or corrosion, unless also treated with a water-displacing oil to reduce wetting and galvanic corrosion.
The impractical "Langevisier" or "rollercoaster" rear sight of the Mauser Gewehr was replaced with a conventional tangent leaf sight.
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It seems pretty stiff, has plenty of adjustment and feeds well with my. The recoil pad isn't as soft as I would like. The detachable magazine is pretty cool for a m98, but keep in mind that you must feed all cartridges through the magazine with a m98 extractor, kind of a pain for shooting one at a time at the range. Sort by. Filter by. Great stock for the 98 Mauser. I used this with a Turkish 8mm Mauser and very minor fitting was needed. It would have been nice if QD stud mounts would have been included as the ones I had are too small to be a press fit in the molded in recesses.
Looks great and the feeding is fine. Significantly cheaper the the detachable magazine conversions I have seen. Would recommend: Yes. Report Abuse Share. Does the Job. Purchased this item as a quick and easy fix for a damaged wooden stock on a custom 7x I had to do a little inletting adjustment to acomodate some custom features trigger, bolt handle and barrel size just forward of the receiver ring but I expected that.
A few minutes with a Dremel tool and files took care of things. The rifle shoots minute-of-angle with this stock and feeds OK from the supplied magazine. No problems. Archangel Mauser K98 Percision Stock. The Archangel precision stock for my Obendorf Mauser is of very good quality.
The instructions were spot on. I had to make a few adjustments and fit just about perfect. The stock adjustments, cheek and but were very easy to adjust.
The accuracy is much better than the original stock.Mauser K98 Items For Sale. Parcel will be sent to the street address only on the license provided and will require licensee signature.
Payment via cash, personal check or money order via US Mail are all acceptable but all must clear prior to shipment. We cannot accept Paypal, or CODs on the below. All firearms are sold with a three-day, non-shooting inspection period if you shoot it, you own it and may be returned for a full refund minus shipping costs within that time if returned in the same packaging and condition as sent.
All firearms should be handled with extreme care and safety and should be inspected and certified by a competent gunsmith prior to use. Beautiful ca. No import marks, appears to have originally been a short side rail sniper, but has double claw mounts and K. Kahles 4x scope with WW2 sniper cross bars and pointed picket reticle, functional and clear.
See pics for condition- A super nice vet bring-back sporting rifle made by a German master with a reputation dating back to the late s! Has some pitting on cross guard see picsbut a scarce rivet late "44 asw" example! Scabbard is a reproduction but presents well Hard to find variation in any shape! Originally issued three per weapon, very hard to find Sold "each". Sold each. Click on the link to the right Bayonets.
No import marks. What you see is what you get, metal is fine but you'll need a bolt, stock, handguard, stock bands and lug to make correct Fairly nice example to start with if you can dig up the parts needed and bargain priced! Sold Nice Mauser Standard-Modell Good condition, except bolt all metal and wood parts on this rifle that should. From the s before the war, father of the K. Used, serviceable, typical of the type, condition as shown, bore GD.
A copy of the magazine will be included with purchase shown full length from the right. What you see is what you get, metal is fine but you'll need a stock, handguard, stock bands and lug to make correct Really nice example to start with if you can dig up the parts needed and bargain priced!
Stock has been lightly sanded in past, few scratches and dings, markings highlighted in crayon easily removed with stiff brush.Remember Me?
What's New? Forum Gunboards. Results 1 to 23 of Thread: K98 Stock Finish? John A.
Mauser K98 Stock German 98K. Original WWII
Join Date Sep Posts 1, K98 Stock Finish? I have been reading about Soviet re-works with shellac and whether to strip the stocks, and whether or not to put Linseed Oil or Tung Oil on stocks. I wondered what was the original finish and what if anything the Germans used on their stocks in the field?
A friend of mine is a Finnish Major, certified gun and knife nut and avid hunter. Thru my Finnish friend I asked what was used on rifle stocks and the answer I got back was nothing, they just kept the stocks clean and dry. Still I would like to know what type of finish was on the stock when it came out of the factory to be issued? Thanks, John. Join Date Feb Posts Sponsored Links Remove Advertisements. I got the BLO, and thanks to both of you.
Posts 4, Not blo as we know it today. Try real tung oil from realmilkpaint.Shahed 123
This is a really touchy subject and plenty has been written in previous posts. That's all I am going to say about it. I thought Ballistol was used by the Germans during WW2. Its a synthetic oil, that can treat wood, leather and metal. Its still used today. However its not a finish. DID mine with danish oil came out gorgeous should see the crowd she draws at range it looks great out in sunlight.
I am fixing to drill and tap it and add a lsr mount a zf scope. Mine is a BRO Czec 98, thes laminated stocks do look awesome when done right color looks good, looks like a new rifle now. They had polished off crest to the white, i reblued those spots and fixing to make an lsr type sniper now. SO im good with how it came out with the danish oil. The stock original look- looks fine to me Erma stock is not German- original stock is a duffle cut which i have. And enjoy what i can get.
And i like the blond wood look it was that color when i bought it i just shined her up.Comes with bayonet lug, butt plate, cleaning rod retainer, recoil lug, and bolt disassembly piece built into the stock. This stock has the letters ECG carved into the stock. See picture 9. It has scuffs around the butt plate and slight delamination around the recoil bolt. Both pictured. Butt plate is painted black, so this one might be a Russian capture.
The last couple pictures shows a stock from the same type stock mounted to my German byf Mauser and another on my BNZ 43 Steyr Mauser rifles not for sale. This is for the stock and hardware already installed that is listed above. Disclaimer- I have worked in the food safety industry for well over a decade.
My items will come with a film of disinfectant or quat sanitizer on the surface. This will not stain or otherwise change the appearance of the items you buy. That being said I encourage everyone to use gloves when handling any and all mail. Many people have handled that package before it reaches your home.
Avoid using cash or other items that pass through many hands before you have it in your possession. Sanitize everything that someone else has handled. A good example of that- the exterior packaging of any product you buy from the grocery store or any other store.
God bless. Be safe. Help and protect your elderly family members. Check out my other listings for other Mauser, Enfield, and other militarily surplus items. Thanks for looking!Ios safari hide navigation bar
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Mauser K98 Stock German 98K. See Details on eBay Search Swurl. Recent Feedback. See Details.View Full Version : K98 Original wood finish? Back in the 40's the original correct finish for say an M1 Garand was pure tung oil and or some say linseed oil.
What would be the most absolute correct finish for the K98? I have what I think is an excellent condition stock and want to add something to the dry wood, but dont want to make it look doctored up. Ive "heard" the Germans used nothing at all. But I definately want to put something on it to preserve the wood, as not to let it dry out and go to crap. Im sure I'll get the critics answer of leave it alone, but its 70 yr old wood. It needs something? I was thinking no linseed oil because it is known to oxidize and turn red as seen on original 03's and M1's.
My thought was a very light coat of pure tung oil followed by Howard wax? If you have a known secret that wont disturb the original look please tell. Your last paragraph may be your answer. The Howards won't moisturize anything really. If it is bone dry like a 75 year old farm house timbers then maybe try a little humidity for a couple days and then some howards?
No don't drop it in water but maybe somewhere near a sauna??? I'd say as Award noted, a little Howards and store it properly. Subjecting dry wood to moisure can cause significant problems. I just put a light coat of Howards wax on it, waited the 20 and wiped it down.
It came out exactly like I wanted it to. Im gonna let it sit untouched overnight before re-assembling. HB any ideas on what the Germans used the day they were new. Or some kind of wood oil, wax, etc? Keep in mind that back then they boiled raw linseed oil high temp in a pressure chamber to expell all oxygen which caused it to "cure" when exposed to air. Modern BLO has chemicals added to it to make it cure, it is no longer "boiled".
Does the above make it different when dry? The consensus of evidence seems to indicate that some type of linseed oil was what their manual called for and what a majority of untouched bring-backs have on them, but this was not universal.
Some photos, especially of laminate stocks, seem to indicate no finish at all as others claim was standard.
My guess is that prior to the war starting the linseed oil or equivalent was standard, but as the war continued changes were made that didn't make it to the manual. They were dipped in a warm vat of Tung Oil and hung to dry.
It will soak in fast. Let it dry for 24 hours then apply another coat. Put at lest 4 coats of BLO on the stock with a 24 hour drying time in between coats. You can add more coats if you like. If your last coat will not dry and stays tacky on the stock.
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